Below are the steps I took to magnetize the arms of my Warhound Titans.
I ended up using 3/8″ magnets, specifically 3/8″ by 1/4″ step sided magnets.
There is (barely) room for 1/2″ magnets (which I used on my Reaver) and if I could do it again I might use those…as the 3/8″ magnets are ‘slightly’ too weak.
A quick preview / work in progress pics of the pair of Forgeworld mars pattern warhound titans I’m currently building. I just finished the modular/LiPo/switched LED setup. Next is to finish detailing the cockpit and then epoxying the heads to the chassis.
Wow, I won ‘best painted’ in the latest league at ATEase Games in Poway, CA with 1500 points of my blood angels army!!!
My army is on top of the dark grey foam on the right side of the picture in the middle.
There were some REALLY NICE armies on the table… Some great looking Necrons, Tyrranids, & Grey Knights in particular.
- Test fit everything so you know what is what. Take your time here.
- Decide on your pinning strategy. Expand the below image to see where I decided to put pins.
Overall I’m happy with the color scheme of the ‘interior’ of the titan. Instead of going with a very dirty, washed gunmetal or chainmail, I went for a ‘worn grey paint’ look. My inspiration was the inside of a Sea Knight helicopter sitting on the USS Midway aircraft carrier here in San Diego (see below for picture)
- Primed with Duplicolor grey sandable primer
- Airbrushed base coat of Reaper Master Series 9089 Cloudy Grey
- Airbrushed highlight of Reaper Master Series 9090 Misty Grey
- Skin tone is Reaper Fair Skin Tone triad, with a wash of Vallejo 73.204 flesh wash after the reaper ‘Fair Skin Shadow’ but before the two highlight layers were applied.
- I wanted the tubes to look ‘transparent’ with fluids (blood) going in/out of the servitor through the tube. I base coated white, slapped on a layer of Games Workshop gloss coat, then applied a very thin wash of clear blue and green (9096/9097) and matt medium and water. Overall I’m happy with the color, but not with the red lines… if I were to do it again I’d just go with the clear blue affect.
- The black is simply pure black, with edge highlighting from a woodless graphite pencil
- The metallic smudging/worn paint was applied by rubbing the woodless graphite pencil along the rivits, then smudging the graphite around randomly with my finger tip.
- Here’s the inspiration picture (click to enlarge):
Goal: A fully magnetized and positionable reaver titan powerfist.
- Understand where each piece fits. While it’s obvious now, before I started assembling the arm I thought that the ‘wrist end’ of the arm was actually the ‘shoulder end.’ This ended up being okay, as I realized it before magnetizing the hand itself, but could have been disastrous had that not been the case. Take a second to carefully read the instructions, ID the parts, and figure our which parts go where. Test fit. In particular, separate the thumb finger set of pieces, the two ‘long’ sets of finger pieces, and the two ‘short’ sets of finger pieces. The thumb pieces only very slightly, with some wider knuckle covers, joins, etc.
- Optionally, magnetize the arm. I magnetized the mount to the shoulder, the first joint below the shoulder, and the wrist. I didn’t magnetize the elbow as there wasn’t an obvious way to do that joint, and it’s already a bit ‘fiddly’ with the three other magnetized joints (although with the 1/2 x 1/4 neodymium magnets is suprisingly secure).One thing to watch out for…I got the first joint ‘backwards’ such that the ‘more armor side’ of the should joint (fart right piece in below picture) was ‘outside.’ (‘up’ in the below picture). In fact, it should be INSIDE (down) if you want to be able to pose the arm ‘up and out’ (as in lift your right elbow away from your body) For the reaver to do that, the ‘short armor side’ of the upper/shoulder joint needs to be facing ‘up/out.’ As a result, my upper arm is ‘backwards,’ the ‘tube’ is facing forward from the inner elbow instead of facing back, and I was unable to use a piston. With all that said, I still think it looks great! If I could do it over again, I’d build it as designed. Ooops! If you build a power fist arm don’t make the same mistake as me!
Here are the steps I took to pin the shoulders of a reaver titan…
- I used JB-Weld epoxy to first glue to shoulders to the main body of the reaver titan. Because the shoulders will be subject to leveraged weight of the weapon arms, I wanted this to be as strong of a bond as possible, so I roughed up the surface of the weld on both the body and the shoulder pieces with the hobby knife, and used the ‘full strength’ JB-Weld (instead of the JQ-Quick). When using full strength, you have to let it cure overnight… and to ensure that nothing shifted during curing I clamped the heck out of each shoulder.
After dropping the ridiculous amount of money for expertly cast resin parts from the UK… aka a VERY expensive pile of plastic… and spending weeks upon weeks of building and painting it, I don’t want to take it to my first game and regret my choice of hard mounted weapons!
Sooo… I bought all the available Imperial weapons, and decided to magnetize the shoulders of the reaver and each of the weapon arms. The challenge is that the Power Fist has a ‘flat’ interface to the shoulder socket where the other three arms have a ‘ball’ interface to the shoulder socket, so I had to essentially make the weapon/shoulder interface the same for all weapons.
To do this, I made the ‘ball’ weapon interface ‘flat’ and used the cut tops of the arms to hold the magnet in exactly the right place in the shoulder. Hopefully this diagram explains (the square rectangles within the named parts are where the magnets sit).
- The very first step was to smooth the pistons surface as much as possible. The Alclad 2 highly metallic paints are SO shiny that every imperfection in the surface shows clearly. So… I used a Dremel and a fine grit abrasive buff.
- As a test, to ensure I have good paint adhesion and am okay with the texture of the Duplicolor sandable primer, I primed the 16 toe pistons of the reaver titan. Because I want ‘resin->resin’ bonds when I glue the pistons in, the first step was to use adhesive putty (aka poster putty or blu tack) to cover the portions of the pistons that will glue in.