Of course as soon as I take the picture I see everything I forgot… have to paint the bolter rounds in the twin link bolter on the turret. I’ll also apply some decals using micro-sol, and then finish with a 50/50 mix of matt/satin Liquitex Varnish. I don’t think I’m going to weather these models until I get better at weathering, so they’ll stay ‘clean’ for now.
After much deliberation, browsing pictures of ‘black’ miniatures on dakka dakka the only truly black example that I found and liked was at cool mini or not, and I don’t have the skill nor the patience to pull that off… so I decided to give my good old airbrush (read easy blends!) a try.
I primed with Vallejo black surface primer, followed by a coat of Reaper Adamantium Black, followed by a highlight of blackened steel. You can see the ‘raw’ airbrush output, which makes the models look very, very grey compared to a pure black model.
I then applied two layers of Games Workshop badab black wash, which darkened the grey look significantly. The models ended up looking a bit ‘drab’ and I’m hoping that a satin varnish applied as the last protective coat will add enough shine/contrast/depth to give the effect of highlighted black armor instead of oily grey armor. We’ll see how it turns out!
Finished my first Warhammer 40k Rhino and learned a lot.
- I didn’t lay down enough water/micro-sol when placing the decals, and got some air-bubbles.
- Airbrushing Reaper ‘basic dirt’ created a low-key ‘less is more’ weathering effect that I liked
- Applying the Vallejo pigments was dramatic. I like the affect, but it’s a bit much
- I like the citadel boltgun metal edge highlighting. The GW site shows an orange edge highlight, might try that out but am happy with the metallic edges.
- Airbrushing the black exhaust stains came out nicely and was quick/easy
- After the priming & airbrushed base color/highlight, it took me about 7-8 hours to complete the Rhino this first time
I had previously built a ‘spraying rack’ to get the first rhino I built up off the bottom of my ghetto card board airbrush booth. It looks kinda’ impossible to paint the shoulder pads of the marines with the jump packs on, so for now I’m going to paint them separately… to make that easier and to ensure that I get the airbrush highlight angle correct, I added on to my airbrush paint sprue framework. The jump packs themselves are attached to the sprues with poster-tack, so should be easy to remove them once they have the base coat and highlight coat in place.