Blood Angels Death Company
After much deliberation, browsing pictures of ‘black’ miniatures on dakka dakka the only truly black example that I found and liked was at cool mini or not, and I don’t have the skill nor the patience to pull that off… so I decided to give my good old airbrush (read easy blends!) a try.
I primed with Vallejo black surface primer, followed by a coat of Reaper Adamantium Black, followed by a highlight of blackened steel. You can see the ‘raw’ airbrush output, which makes the models look very, very grey compared to a pure black model.
I then applied two layers of Games Workshop badab black wash, which darkened the grey look significantly. The models ended up looking a bit ‘drab’ and I’m hoping that a satin varnish applied as the last protective coat will add enough shine/contrast/depth to give the effect of highlighted black armor instead of oily grey armor. We’ll see how it turns out!
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Imperial Strong Point
Finished the Games Workshop Imperial Strong Point! This took me just over three weeks, blew through almost an entire bottle of Vallejo Acrylic Polyurethane Primer, and an entire dropper bottle of Reaper MSP 9176 Military Green. The airbrushing went great, although I had some issues keeping my drybrush dry while trying to cover such large surfaces. I didn’t apply the same level of precision I try for on individual miniatures as it’s just too much surface area to cover within a reasonable amount of time. All the parts for both the bastions and the Aegis defense lines were airbrushed directly on the sprue after removing as many of the sprue supports as possible… this modulated the color on the different panels a lot, perhaps too much.
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Blood Angels Weathered Rhino Troop Transport
Finished my first Warhammer 40k Rhino and learned a lot.
- I didn’t lay down enough water/micro-sol when placing the decals, and got some air-bubbles.
- Airbrushing Reaper ‘basic dirt’ created a low-key ‘less is more’ weathering effect that I liked
- Applying the Vallejo pigments was dramatic. I like the affect, but it’s a bit much
- I like the citadel boltgun metal edge highlighting. The GW site shows an orange edge highlight, might try that out but am happy with the metallic edges.
- Airbrushing the black exhaust stains came out nicely and was quick/easy
- After the priming & airbrushed base color/highlight, it took me about 7-8 hours to complete the Rhino this first time
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Warmacine & Warhammer Metallics
Warmachine Cygnar Precursor Knights with reaper Metallics and a Citadel black wash next to some Grey Knight space marines painted with raw, unwashed Testors stainless steel metalizer and some citadel dwarf bronze details also washed in citadel black wash.
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Testors Metalizer on Games Workshop Grey Knights Space Marines
I gave Testors ‘stainless steel’ metalizer enamel paint a try this past week. Overall I’m very happy with the results. You can see a ‘metalized’ squad of grey nights next to some space marines painted with Createx Wicked airbrush paints. Obviously these are all just basecoated, so I have yet to see how acrylics will layer on top of the metallic, how the finish will look if/when I seal with Acrylic varnish, and how durable the metalizer colors will be in practice.
The metalizer sprays were a dream to shoot in my Iwata Hi-Line brush.
On thing that I learned was to be conservative with how much to ‘buff’ the metalized paints. I was a bit too aggressive and buffed out some of the metallic shine on the shoulder pads on some of these guys.
I’m so enamored with these enamels and metalizers in general that I ordered some ‘Alclad II’ chrome paint. I will, as usual, post the results once I have given the Alclad paints a whirl.
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Warhammer 40k airbrushing done
Terminators
Artograph 1520 spray booth
Stormraven Gunship
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Jump pack painting rack
I had previously built a ‘spraying rack’ to get the first rhino I built up off the bottom of my ghetto card board airbrush booth. It looks kinda’ impossible to paint the shoulder pads of the marines with the jump packs on, so for now I’m going to paint them separately… to make that easier and to ensure that I get the airbrush highlight angle correct, I added on to my airbrush paint sprue framework. The jump packs themselves are attached to the sprues with poster-tack, so should be easy to remove them once they have the base coat and highlight coat in place.
30mm Madness! 